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mrindian

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President - Starklite Cycle

How to Install Indian Rod Races

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How to Install Indian Rod Races

You just purchased a set of replacement Rod Races, and you received three shiny pieces of metal. But what are you supposed to do with them? Many of our customers have recently inquired about the proper way to install rod races. This same procedure holds true for any engine with a male/female rod combination. The dimensions may vary but not the procedure.

For our example we will use the dimensions of the Chief or Scout “45” rod races.

The rod races are designed to protrude beyond the sides of the female rod. The races are what is to contact the flywheel thrust washers, not the sides of the female rod. When the sides of the races wears down, it should be replaced. The width of the of the female races is .400 inch. The width of the male race is .800 inch. We replace all of the races if any one is worn more than .005 inches on its width.

  1. Remove old races. Female rod requires pressing from inside the slot toward the outside. The rod must be fully supported around the entire circumference.
  2. Examine new races, make sure the outer edge is not sharp. It should have a slight taper to prevent shaving metal from the rod when it is pressed in.
  3. Using “Red Loctite”, press male race into male rod. Support the outer circumference, as you did in step 1. Make sure the race is centered in the rod. Measure and measure the rod to verify the race is centered.
  4. Using “Red Loctite”, press the two female races into the female rod from inside the slot toward the outside of the rod. Support the rod around the circumference as in step 1. The races normally end up flush, or nearly flush, with the inside edges of the rod.
  5. Measure the distance across the outer edges of the female races. This distance should be 1.610 inches. (The 2 female races are .400” each and the male is .800”. The clearance of the male between the 2 females should be .010 inches. This all totals up to 1.610 inches). If this dimension is different, the male race rod will not fit properly in the female rod slot. If it is over 1.610 inches, the rod end play will be too low, or may not even go in. The 1.610” dimension should measure the same all of the way around. If it varies, this means the races are not installed parallel to each other and adjustments are necessary.
  6. To insure a perfectly round race, the races should be honed to fit standard .2500” bearings, after installation. However, if you wish to bypass this honing procedure, .2495” bearings should fit with the proper clearance.

This article may also be downloaded as a printable PDF by clicking the link at the end of the article. If this helped you with your restoration please leave us comments below!

By carefully following these directions you will get the best results installing your rod races. All Starklite Cycle rod races are manufactured to surpass original factory specifications. If you have any questions please feel free to call or write. Our goal is to provide you with the highest quality parts to get your INDIAN back on the road. Thank You

WARNING: All modifications are done at the consumers own risk. Starklite Cycle urges that all modifications be done by a qualified mechanic to insure proper installation.

Max Bubeck does the ton thirty five

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Max does the ton thirty five

Records are made to be broken, especially in motorsports. Every season, people try to shave lap times, horsepower figures and absolute speed records. Most folks are happy to establish a new record, even if it is broken soon thereafter. But to hold a record for over 52 years is simply amazing.

In the summer of 1948, Max Bubeck established what is still the highest speed for an unstreamlined, normally-aspirated 80 cubic-inch, side-valve (Indian) motor–135.58 mph. Max achieved this with his “Chout,” the large Chief engine wedged in the smaller Scout frame. Think of an Evolution motor stuffed into a 883 Sportster frame. What follows is an interview with ‘Mad Max.’

Minnesota Motorcycle Monthly: How did you get involved with speed trials?

Max Bubeck: I got out of high school in ’34 and I shagged in downtown L.A.–pick-up and delivery.

M.M.M.: On a bike?

M.B.: On my 1930 Indian Four.

M.M.M.: So it’s something you did for fun?M.B.: Yes, and enduros. I rode about a total of 300 enduros altogether.

M.M.M.: Were you trained as a machinist or metallurgist?

M.B.: No, sorta’ a natural mechanic. I started out workin’ on my own stuff, right away. Mainly because I was interested in it. I’m the kind of guy that can figure out what’s wrong with things, and fix it. There was a lot of things I couldn’t do, but after the war, when (fellow enduro rider) Frank Chase and I started up the saw sharpening business, and I knew nothing about it–Frank had worked at it, all during the war. We didn’t have that much business, and I was no good at sharpening saws. Next door, Rollie Harper had a motorcycle shop there, just a general motorcycle shop that did everything. He had his own mechanics, but they’d have slopover, and he’d give me engines to work on. We’d been hoppin’ up Chiefs for quite a while. Started back in the late 30s already. By 1940, when Frank Christian arrived on the scene from back East, he came up with the idea of the stroker Chief.

Indian finally made some good flywheels; ‘Z-metal’ they called ’em. Meanite, which was a cast steel, instead of cast iron. Cast iron flywheels had a tendency to explode (waves hands in a blast pattern) cast iron being very brittle. (chuckles). When Christian came out with that idea, we immediately went to strokers. I had been fooling around with porting; you know, working on the heads and the top end and stuff, and Frank Chase would setup the lower (end.)

As I say, I was kinda’ the do-nothing around there; I had to do something, and so I started working on the motorcycle engines. We started building stroker Chief engines for people. Pop Shunk was grinding the cams for us. Fred Shunk, they called him ‘Pop.’ Where he got the name, I don’t know…

M.M.M.: What kind of prep work would you do?

M.B.: (starts sketching) Its attention to detail. Example: we were running 5/8″ spark lead, which means, when the piston’s 5/8″ from the top, it would fire. I got to thinkin’ about this and finally, with the heads off and setting up the timing, settin’ the mag (magneto) up; you’d set the front one at 5/8ths, and the rear one would be a half or 3/4. So what’s wrong? The cam on the mag. You take the one that’s firing too soon, and you carefully, with a little Dremel grinder, go in there and grind the lead off of that breaker cam. Now you get both of them firing (in) the same place.

M.M.M.: Did you ever experiment with shorter stroke/big bore, like everyone does today?

M.B.: You can’t on an Indian. When we got to 30 over, we’d throw ’em (the cylinders) away. If we didn’t, we’d blow ’em off–the cylinders are that thin at the bottom. Harley’s always been big. You can bore ’em, you can stroke ’em, do all kinds of things to them. But the Indian was always skimpy on cylinder wall size. Anyway, this was all seat of the pants stuff. I came up with this stuff on my own, and apparently it worked. There were always a lot of people that were building things that were gonna go quicker than we were, but they never did. And they haven’t yet today. (chuckles)

M.M.M.: Let’s talk about your porting. Was that strictly trial and error?

M.B.: We had no flow benches, no dynos, no nothin.’ When Indian came out with the Bonneville Chiefs and Scouts in 1938…

M.M.M.: That was a cam and what else?

M.B.: They had a factory cam in ’em too, but (Pop) Shunk was a far better cam grinder than that. You see, there is nothing that the factory does that somebody can’t improve on. Even today.

M.M.M.: What about 4-valve heads vs. 2-valve heads?

M.B.: Well, that’s more breathing. I looked at the way Indian was setting up their Bonnevilles, and the way they shaped their intake ports, and then I went ahead on some other things. On the Chout, when we first built that stroker thing, even in a Chief frame it ran 128 1/2 mph. Somehow, that seemed to be the barrier, you’d never get past that. (laughter) (It’d) go between 125-128 mph every time we went to speed trials. I just desperately wanted to go 130 mph, so we geared for 130 mph. We had it on Frank Christian’s dyno, and we were puttin’ out 65 horsepower at 44 hundred R’s – This with two carbs, one for each intake port.

M.M.M.: On the crank, or on the rear wheel?

M.B.: Rear wheel. We figured out the sprockets we wanted. We had a 30 (tooth) on front, and a 36 on the rear and then the ratio between the primary made the difference. 2.60:1 gear ratio, anyway. When I finally ran 135 1/2, it was turning 4600, which was over the horsepower. So if it’d had some more gear, and we didn’t have any more available, well, we coulda’ run faster. Hindsight is great. After that, well that’s the last time we ever ran, we put the thing in a, Pop Shunk had an old board track frame, and we put it in that. (We) didn’t bother puttin’ braces on the cylinders, and blew a cylinder off on the dyno. Then I says, ‘Hey we’re in the saw-sharpening business. We gotta get outta foolin’ with motorcycles.’ We shoulda’ gone the other way (more laughter) but we didn’t, so we practically quit then, you know.

M.M.M.: Does that make you feel good, or is it just-?

M.B.: Yeah it makes me feel good! When I realize what we did with what we had, I mean we had no flow benches, we had a dyno when we finally finished up, but that’s just end result. We didn’t keep goin’ to the dyno, we didn’t have time, or the funds to do that. We just did (what we could with) what we had, and it seemed to work.

M.M.M.: Did you ever play with valve size or springs?

M.B.: Oh we used Bonneville springs, which were double. Exhaust valve, you leave alone. Intake valve, was flat (sketches valves) and tulip-shaped here. I’d put ’em on a big 10″ grinding wheel, mostly to lighten (the) valves.

M.M.M.: Tell me about your early hydraulic forks.

M.B.: The last job I had before I decided I’d better get into something other than riding the damn motorcycle around the city all the time, I was shagging for Economy Blueprint, out in North Hollywood. One of the stops that we had was at Bendix. Bendix had an engineering building along a dirt road, Empire, which at that time was not paved, and full of potholes and everything. Usually, those engineers would be out there waiting for these prints. They were always in a hurry for them, you know. You know, Indians had a leaf spring on the thing and rigid rear and everything, And the guy says, ‘My God, those things do a lot of bouncin’.’ and he let it go at that.

The next time I took something out there he said, “Would you be able to let us use that machine for a couple of days and take some measurements? We’re thinking about building some hydraulic forks for the front end.” Bendix was making aircraft landing gears at the time, you know. Anyway, I arranged to borrow somebody else’s machine and they had it for a couple of days, and I got it back. Believe it or not, this was in August, 1939. Every time I’d see the guy (Bendix Engineer) he’d say, ‘”Yeah, we’re getting along well. We should have those forks in a couple of months.” Get all the drawings done, and everything.

Early September, ’39, of course the war broke out in Europe, and they didn’t have to worry about what the hell to do anymore (chuckles). Immediately the US started building airplanes by the thousands, and Bendix was very busy with their landing gears. That killed my Bendix fork arrangement for the Four–but that’s how close I came to probably having the first American machine with hydraulic forks on it.

M.M.M.: Tell me about the Vard story.

M.B.: In 1946, I’d put on Vard forks, and Vard was an outfit in Pasadena that made drafting equipment. They made these things that draftsmen use that got all these mickey-mouse arms on them. During the war, they used their facilities for all kinds of different things, and they happened to have four Pasadena Motorcycle Club members working there. Of course, in their spare time, they were always comin’ up with something new, and when the war was over, they already had thought a lot about some of this stuff, so they built these forks, which were the forerunner of the Harley Hydra-Glide forks. Vard made these forks extra-wide Because Harley front ends were a lot wider than Indian front ends. They were made so they’d fit Harley or Indian, either one. Anyway, (Ed) Kretz got the wholesale price, $50.00, which was what he charged me.

M.M.M.: How, did he have an in with-?

M.B.: Oh, he was a dealer. They were pretty basic, and they worked well, but they wore out pretty fast because they didn’t have any seals in ’em. They’d pump oil out pretty rapidly, and then the oil would mix with the dust and the dirt and help grind the (slider) bushing. The legs were not hard-chromed either, they were just plain steel. They had no protection from wear, so the first thing I did when I rebuilt my Four, I took the legs out and had ’em hard chromed. I then made a bushing to fit that, and then I put a seal on the top of the bushing. I’m still running the thing since 1986. I haven’t put any oil in ’em or anything else, and they still work very well. Anyway, back to the forks. Amazingly enough, Ed Kretz and I were good friends, they retailed for $72.00.

M.M.M.: So that would be a couple months pay?
M.B.: (softly) Well, no. Shagging I was making 25 bucks a week.

M.M.M.: So, three weeks pay?
M.B.: Yeah, still a lot of money.

Not content to rest, Max is building “Chout II.” Custom fabricated with modern aluminum, imported Australian cylinders and heads modified by Max. While the motor takes shape in Southern California, work progresses on an authentic 101 Scout frame. It will be straightened, and extra lugs removed–any and all excess weight removed. Cycle parts will be minimal. Smaller Junior Scout gas and oil tanks, no fenders, aluminum rims. Anything to reduce mass, aid airflow and help optimize Chout II’s potential top speed, and break his own record.

M.M.M.: How do feel about your chances with Chout II?

M.B.: I’m pretty sure we can run at least 145 mph, maybe quicker. ‘Cause now we know what to do about gearing.

M.M.M.: You gonna run her at El Mirage?

M.B.: I hate El Mirage! I’ve only ever gotten into two speed wobbles, period. And both times were at El Mirage.

M.M.M.: Because of the wind? or..

M.B.: No, the surface. Both times, it shook my feet off the pegs, and I was just hangin’ by the handlebars. (picture the photo of Rollie Free on the Vincent) Somehow, it managed to straighten itself out. One time, the worst one was at about, a little over 125 mph. I hit a big hole there, and it just shook the hell out of things, and all of a sudden, straightened out again. (When) I got back in, and we got to lookin’, we had this 19 inch, it was like a Triumph wheel or something in there–no front brake or anything–just what we called a spool hub.

M.M.M.: Sure. Like on a chopper.

M.B.: Yeah. Anyway, there were four spokes broken out of that. Couple of more wiggles, and the whole wheel woulda’ gone. That woulda’ been a pretty bad situation (smiles at memory.) They run (Dry Lake) Muroc, I think, at least once a year. Mostly by invitation, but we have some connections. Or we might go somewhere else. I just don’t know yet. We haven’t got the machine done yet.

M.M.M.: What does the Scout frame have that the Chief frame doesn’t? It’s lighter?

M.B.: Its lighter! See, the (reason that the) Chout was such fun to ride and everything, it was about 75 pounds lighter than a Chief. Dick Gross used to say, “Eleven pounds is a horsepower.” So we’re lookin’ at 6 and 1/2 more horsepower potential, available for acceleration.

M.M.M.: And your head work?

M.B.: The main thing is we’ve got access to flow benches, so we can check our flow in and out. Change the ports as necessary. You can fill ’em in with aluminum. We were fillin’ in the exhausts like mad because they are way too big.

M.M.M.: What about tuning the exhaust? Will you change the headers?

M.B.: Yes, they will be modified to fit the smaller exhaust ports. There’s so much new technology. That’s why I say, I can’t imagine why somebody hasn’t beat our time a long time ago. Most people don’t do well with technology, you know. Its just amazing that a lot of people don’t seem to have the feel for it.

M.M.M.: When do think you’ll try a record run? 2001?

M.B.: I hope sooner than that.

M.M.M.: Do you have a rider in mind?

M.B.: (Amazed) I’m gonna ride ‘er! I just want to go more than 135.58 (mph.) After that, we’ll see if Jim can get 145.

M.M.M.: Max, good luck with Chout II.

M.B.: Thank you.
Max Bubeck ran The Indian 4 Experience, specializing in Indian engine modifications and rebuilding until he passed away. Godspeed.

‘Mad Max’ by Sev Pearman (M.M.M March 2000)

A Trip down Memory Lane – Purchasing Antique Motorcycles

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A Trip down Memory Lane – Purchasing Antique Motorcycles

by Gary Stark

We collect antique motorcycles for many reasons. For some it’s considered a trip down Memory Lane as we now have the financial resources to pursue our dreams from our teen years or purchasing the bike we remember our father or grandfather used to have. Of course we tell our wives, “It’s really more of an investment than a motorcycle.” What you don’t tell them is that you’ve wanted or lusted after one for more than 30 years.

There are several routes to getting to your dream. You can buy one in good condition, at auction, on the Internet, magazines, restore a fixer-upper yourself, or pay an expert to restore one to your exact specifications. Whichever route you choose, make sure you don’t underestimate the cost to complete the project. Even the ones that appear to be in good condition on the auction block, or at the swap meet, can take several thousand dollars of work to make them dependable on the road.

Most times, buying a restored bike is often less expensive than purchasing a basket case and performing the restoration yourself. It is easy to put more money into the bike when you fix it up than if you bought it restored. In many cases, the previous owner has spent more money on his dream project than the bike is worth. This is especially true if it was restored by a professional.

If you decide to purchase a bike that you know very little about, it is often wise to garner some knowledge before making the investment plunge. If you currently own a post-war bike and decide to purchase a bike in the teen’s, 20’s, 30’s, 40’s or a different model than you currently own, make it a point to attend the next Antique Motorcycle Club of America, http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/ , event near your hometown. Even if it’s eight or more hours away, this investment will pay off over time. The AMCA is filled with members who are willing to share information on the bikes they own. Drill these current owners about parts availability, problems during the restoration, and drivability. The Internet has become a great source of knowledge. With our recently expanded club website at www.indian-motorcycles.com you have convenient resource to ask questions on models, share photos, and write blogs on your own restorations.

How much to spend on a model depends on several factors – 1. How popular the model is  2. quantity produced, and 3. Rideability. A good example is the 1940-42 four cylinder models. These are currently very popular, and were very low in production numbers. This model can command over $65,000 on the high end, and $30,000 for one needing restoration.

            While shopping for your dream motorcycle, you have several resources. Hemmings Motor News (www.hemmings.com; 800-227-4373 $29.00 for 12 issues. This 500 page monthly magazine has a limited “Cycle” classified section, while offering a literal bible of information on cars. Ebay (www.ebay.com) is quickly becoming a must see source of Indians for sale. Also our club website, and the Starklite website lists a section on bikes for sale. Be sure to visit when you are looking at prices, as some great deals have shown up recently. Caution: When confirming sales on the internet be careful that you are dealing with a reputable seller, scams are very common amongst internet sales. Either use a broker, or visit the bike yourself. Don’t forget your local newspaper classified section or Craigslist.org . We recently heard of a complete 1946 Chief sold in Southern California for $4,000, while the asking price was $6,000! So deals still can be found.

Another way to track that bike down is to visit an auction. Most auctions will list the bikes that will be available before the event. Get a list and if the bike you are interested in is listed, make a trek to attend. If you can’t attend you can usually register as a phone or Internet bidder, and bid on your dream vehicle. One of the most prominent Auctions takes place every January. Mark January on your calendar to Attend the Mecum Antique Motorcycle Auction in Las Vegas Nevada, at the new South Point Hotel & Casino. This event usually has a really good turnout of bikes, and bidders. They are estimating over 650 motorcycles will be auctioned. Auctions are also held in Sturgis, AMA Vintage M/C Days, and the Daytona Motorcycle meets.

Finding the great deal on a restored bike can be a great story around the campgrounds at night, but the bigger story is the satisfaction of bringing the dream bike back to life yourself.  Nothing can compare when you invest sweat equity to bring your project to life, but be prepared to have patience. It always takes longer than you originally anticipated.

            On the other hand, you may be long on cash and short on patience. If so there are multiple shops who specialize in motorcycle restorations. However, there is nothing cheap when going this route. If you start with a rust bucket bike and are looking for a 100pt restoration be prepared to spend $35,000 to $45,000, depending upon the model and how bad the bike was when you started.

            Most professional restoration shops charge $75 to $125 an hour to work on your bike. If you are looking for a nice rider bike restoration, figure on 300 hours of restoration work. If you are looking for that 100-point show bike add an additional 50-100 hours of labor for the detail work required to obtain 100 points.

            Remember you should always buy these bikes purely out of love, not as an investment. If you are looking for a return on your motorcycle investment, look for a good deal on a bike that’s already been restored rather than restoring one. Remember, the more professional the restoration, the higher the value when you get ready to sell it.

            If you are buying for investment purposes, get as much documentation as possible. This is especially required when you are looking for a rare 1952 or 1953 Chief model. When looking for one of these models you will start to find that there are more of them available than what the factory produced. Look for copies of vehicle registrations from the 50’s, 60’s, or 70’s as proof of the bikes year. During those years, the bikes were not garnering a premium. As with any business there are restorers who are not credible so do your research. Engine numbers and frame numbers can be easily tampered with.

            Despite the economy and roller coaster stock market, the demand for quality antique motorcycles remains high. During the past few years Car Collectors who are used to paying over $100,000 are now getting interested in the Antique Motorcycles. This is now driving the prices of our motorcycles to new never before seen highs.  Having your money invested in a hard asset that you can enjoy is appealing. Looking out to the future… well we can only look at past performance. In 1990, our newsletter had a 1952 Roadmaster restored by Starklite Cycle offered for $14,000. Today this bike would be worth over $40,000. In the same issue we advertised a 1953 Roadmaster by Ted Williams, 300 miles since restoration for $10,500-. Today the bike would easily top $40,000-.  Recent auction results show a strong up trend in pricing, look at these examples:  1934 Indian Sport Scout owned by Steve McQueen sold for $155,000-, and a 1937 Crocker sold for $245,000-. But remember, as the saying goes, past performance is no indication of future returns.

Source: A Trip down Memory Lane – Purchasing Antique Motorcycles – Starklite Indian Motorcycles

How to Identify Chief Rods

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Rebuilding Your Indian – How to Identify your Rods

by Gary Stark

When you start the rebuilding your powerplant, one of the first things you will want to look at will be your rods. Many people wonder what type, and how strong the rods are in their motor. First of all, let it be said that all Indian rods are strong and not prone to breakage. Indian had four basic sets of rods. Pre 1940, 1941-45 Military, 1946-1948, and finally 80ci rods. Before using any original rods, be sure to check for straightness and it is a good idea to have them magnafluxed to check for hidden cracks. If you are building an 80+ci motor we recommend the 41-45 rods. If you are building a stock 74ci motor, the original rods that came with your powerplant should be sufficient as long as you have checked them thoroughly.
Carefully look at the photos and you should be able to identify your rods:

Pre 1940 – Indians 3rd strongest rod. Characteristics: Wrist pin reinforcement, thin lower race section.

1941-45 Military: Perhaps Indian’s strongest rod. Characteristics: Reinforced wrist pin, thick lower race section.

1946-48: Indian’s weakest rod. Characteristics: No wrist pin reinforcement, thin lower race section.

80ci rods: 2nd strongest rod. Characteristics: No wrist pin reinforcement, thick lower race section.

If you have any questions on your rods please give us a call. If you have any hesitation on using your rods. Starklite Cycle manufactures some of the strongest rods available to use in your restoration.

You may also be interested in our tech article – How to install Indian Rod Races. Please be sure to look it up!

The 1953 Indian Motorcycle Advertisement

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This is a great video to watch how quickly they were able to build an engine and get it installed in the frame.

My personal favorite is when the mechanic picks the engine up and sets it down on another workbench. My back aches every time I see that scene.

Reflecting a bygone era: San Francisco International showcases early American motorcycles – The Moodie Davitt Report

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During this pandemic times, if you will be traveling and passing through San Francisco International. Stop by and visit the exhibition on Motorcycling
At a time when many flight restrictions are still in force, an exhibition in the airport’s International Terminal explores the history and the wonders of another mode of transport, motorcycling.

USA. An exhibition exploring the history and development of motorcycling has opened at San Francisco International Airport (SFO).

The SFO Museum exhibition, in the International Terminal Departures, started on 11 February and will run through 19 September 2021.
According to exhibition organisers, early American motorcycles “reflect a bygone era of mechanical innovation and bold industrial design”. They are prized by collectors around the world and displayed on vintage rides, endurance runs, and at special events.
The exhibition presents fourteen ‘exceptional’ examples made prior to 1916, along with a collection of rare engines and photographs from the pioneering era of motorcycling.
It follows the development of the motorcycle – “one of the earliest and most exciting applications of another new invention, the gasoline-powered internal combustion engine” – from the 1890s until 1915. The exhibition highlights the progress of motorcycle technology during that period and the evolvement of riding “from a novelty, to a hobby, sport and a reliable source of transportation”.

Augusta and Adeline Van Buren on Indian motorcycles in Tijuana, Mexico 1916 [Courtesy of Bob and Rhonda Van Buren and Cris Sommer Simmons, The American Motorcycle Girls]

Charles Henshaw and Oscar Hedstrom on a Hedstrom Motor-Pacer [Courtesy of Lyman & Merrie Wood Museum of Springfield History]

As the presentation points out, “motorcycling in the early twentieth century was always an adventure”.
“Road conditions were generally poor and hitting a pothole or other hazard on a motorcycle supported by a primitive, stiffly sprung suspension could easily throw a rider off the bike”.
It also underlines the need for “athletic ability” to start and ride these machines and that motorcyclists had to be mechanically minded to keep them in working condition.

The Flying Merkel twin-cylinder racer dates from 1912 [Courtesy of Dave Scoffone]

The 1914 Jefferson twin-cylinder racer (left) and the 1910 Harley-Davidson Model 6 both feature in the exhibition [ Courtesy of Dave Scoffone]

The SFO Museum,  a division of San Francisco International Airport, is a multifaceted programme with rotating exhibitions on a wide variety of subjects and interactive play areas featured throughout the terminals.
Its mission is to “delight, engage, and inspire a global audience”; to collect, preserve, interpret and share the history of commercial aviation, and to enrich the public experience at San Francisco International Airport.

Source: Reflecting a bygone era: San Francisco International showcases early American motorcycles – The Moodie Davitt Report

The Inside Story of the Indian Arrow

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By T.A. Hodgdon

SOME FOLKS collect stamps­, some go for photography in a big way, others spend all their spare time on the golf course-but my hobby is motorcycling. If I live to be a hun­dred I will never forget the thrill I had when, at the age of 16, I took delivery of my first brand new mo­torcycle. It was a Cleveland Light­weight, and it was so beautiful that I could hardly believe it was really mine.

It had fenders and frame finished in lustrous black enamel, gasoline tank and toolbox painted in gleam­ing blue, and the wheels were painted cream color! It had a small, single cylinder engine, 2 speeds, and a long lever beside the tank, to operate the clutch. The gold letters on the tank spelled out the name “Cleveland,” and I thought they, too, were beautiful. But that was as far as I saw.

My view, at 16 years of age, was limited to what I could see in the gleaming new motorcycle. Little did I realize that you cannot judge a motorcycle from its looks alone. Lit­tle did I dream of the vast amount of engineering and testing work which must be done at the factory before a new model is placed on the market.

In the years since that day when the new Cleveland dazzled me with its three-color paint job, I have owned many, many motorcycles of all sizes, makes and types, Some have been good, others excellent, and still others not so good. Why were some better than others? The answer is in the painstaking care put into engineer­ing and testing-before the models were ever placed on the market.

WE ARE TAKEN BEHIND THE SCENES ON THE 4th of July, this year, I was privileged to see, and ride, the new Indian Arrow, the single cylinder overhead valve, four-speed lightweight which is now being bought by riders all over the country, as fast as Indian can turn them off the production line of the new Indian factory. More than that I was privileged to have a full hour’s talk with G. Briggs Weaver, the designer of the Arrow, and William Bandlow, one of the testers who has pounded the new Arrow over thousands of miles of road tests.

In that interview my eyes were opened to many interesting facts which I had not realized-and which I know will be of intense interest to all motorcycle enthusiasts. Here, you may read some of my questions and Mr. Weaver’s answers.

As you read the answers, keep in mind that Mr.. Weaver is probably the smartest motorcycle designer in the world today. He is a former In­dianapolis Racing Car designer, was the creator of the Indian Sport Scout which has blazed such a trail of vic­tories in major competitive events over the past 10 years, designer of the Indian Shaft Drive Military mo­torcycle, and more recently designer of the new Indian Scout Vertical twin.

AT LAST WE LEARN HOW A NEW MOTORCYCLE IS BORN

SITTING in Mr. Weaver’s study, facing him and Bill Bandlow, a test rider, we asked

Q: “How long ago was design work started on this new Indian Arrow which is now sitting out here in the yard ready for me to ride?”

ANS: “We started on it four years ago, after the Management and Sales Department outlined what was want­ed. We have worked four years to perfect it-to make absolutely cer­tain, by all known engineering and testing means-that it is by far the best and most serviceable lightweight motorcycle that has ever been pro­duced.

“We know that some motorcycle designs have been produced and re­leased to the public in as little time as a year or two, but we at Indian do not believe in that “rush it through” policy. Time, testing, more engi­neering, more testing, and consist­ent, painstaking follow through is the only policy upon which we work. It has to be right in all respects before we O. K. it for production.”

Q: “What was the basic idea­ … what did you set out to design in the new Arrow Single?”

ANS: “We set out to produce a lightweight motorcycle that would weigh not over 250 lbs.-would be capable of 60 miles per hour top speed, have excellent acceleration, and be extremely durable-able to average road speeds on a trip as good as other road traffic, including larger motorcycles and cars. In short-a lightweight that was tough in ability to take punishment of sustained high speeds-not a `featherweight’ for short trips-but a real serviceable lightweight motorcycle.”

Q: “Do you feel that you have achieved it?”

ANS: “We know that we have.”

Q: “How can you be sure?”

ANS: “Our extensive program of testing, year after year under my close personal observation, each day over those years, has enabled us to eliminate, one after another any mi­nor points which could give trouble, until we have a very sound, reliable motorcycle, which our young, strong, test riders are unable to break down, even when they deliberately set out to “ride it to destruction.”

Q:          “How was the road test pro­gram conducted?”

ANS: “Well, our 75,000 miles of road testing on this new design were conducted in two stages. We started by designing and constructing two pilot models. These were put on the road three years ago, and sent out on the road in the hands of testers who were ordered to report every 6 or 8 hours, on general handling, charac­teristics, riding qualities, arrange­ment of controls, operation of clutch, gearbox, brakes, and all other details in the motorcycle.

“Each item was carefully watched, findings noted, and careful records made. Occasional modifications were made. Each small improvement made the motorcycle better, and prepared it for the day we would start the second stage of road testing.”

Q: “What was the second stage of road testing ?”

ANS:     “I will let Bill Bandlow, who did a great deal of that road testing, answer that one.”

BILL, who has been a motorcycle rider for fifteen years, and who was a Flight Instructor in Texas for three years during the war, grinned and said, “When the day came that the models were ready for the acid test, my boss, Clarence Bergsma, head of the Testing Department, told us to take those motorcycles out, pile up the mileage, day after day, seek out the worst roads we could find-pound the daylights out of ’em-in fact, beat ’em up. We did, for weeks on end. Most of us on the testing end had been riding big Chiefs and Sport Scouts, and we had our eyes opened to what a lightweight motorcycle really can do.

“We were told to ride these models just as fast as we could hour after hour, and that is what we did. We soon, changed our ideas-found this new lightweight could maintain al­most as high road speeds as even a big Chief with an engine several times as big! Now I don’t mean it’s as fast on the straightaway-but be­cause of its lighter weight and abil­ity to hold the road-it can make wonderful time on the curved and winding roads. I think Mr. Weaver can give you an example of what I mean.”

“Yes,” said Mr. Weaver, “we had a good example a few weeks ago. A young man left Springfield on the Arrow, headed for the Laconia Races.    He made the 160 miles in 31/2 hours over exceedingly twisting, tor­tuous roads, at average speed of close to 45 miles per hour-and you wouldn’t make that trip in a car in any better time than that.”

“Yes,” cut in Bandlow, the tester “-and you probably wouldn’t make it any faster on a big `61′ or `74’­you wouldn’t go `boiling’ into those winding roads on a big, heavy ma­chine, as fast as you could on the Arrow, because of the ease of han­dling on the turns.”

Q: “Mr. Weaver, tell me of a spe­cific instance of a high speed test with the new model.”

ANS: “First of all-our own test­ers have never been able to break one up-over thousands of miles of speed. We took one of the new models to a place where there is no speed limit-­the famous Harrisburg Turnpike, the super speed highway that runs across Pennsylvania. We put a test­er on it-told him to turn it on-full speed, and hold it on full throttle for the entire 156 mile run, up long hills and down long hills-a supreme test of any engine. Only in the tunnels did he ease off on the throttle. The new model took the full throttle beat­ing for the 156 miles without a mur­mur. There wasn’t even an oil leak showing, and she idled like a kitten after 156 miles on wide open throt­tle!”

Q: “After you were satisfied with the pilot models, what was the next step?”

ANS: “The pilot models were now put aside, and we built several pro­totypes of production models, that is, we incorporated all the improvements the pilot models had shown neces­sary. These models were duplicates of the motorcycles later to be put into production. We now started all over again with the heavy road testing program-told the testers to take the prototype models out and beat ’em up -and this continued for months, un­til we were satisfied the models to be put into production were perfect.”

Q: “Now, gentlemen, how do you account for this extreme durability from a motorcycle of only performance inches piston displacement, and weighing only 250 pounds?”

ANS: “From a durability angle we put only the best of materials and most modern design into the new Arrow-and that goes for the new Vertical Twin Scout as well. For in­stance the cylinder is of iron, with aluminum alloy finning cast onto the process developed during the war for air cooled engines. A very high percentage of the working parts throughout the whole motorcycle are of highest grade alloy steels-parts which in most motorcycles would be made of less expensive material. We further added strength and saved weight by using die castings wher­ever possible.            We have spared no expense in design, testing, or in tool­ing, to make the new models extreme­ly durable and reliable no matter how the rider flogs the machine.”

Then Bill Bandlow added, in typi­cal tester’s jargon, “Ted, you can take this Arrow out on the road, crack the whip, dig in the spurs, tuck in your elbows-and roll ‘er up to maximum “revs” for hours at a time and you can’t hurt it.”

MR. WEAVER then continued: “To get excellent acceleration and a good turn of high speed, we have both an engine and transmission that reduce friction to the lowest possible degree. The whole mecha­nism runs free and easily, largely on ball or roller bearings. Proper lu­brication of each bearing has been most carefully worked out. For in­stance, the connecting rod lower end bearing receives fresh oil under 50 pounds pressure from the instant the engine is started.

“Having thus reduced friction to a minimum, the power output can be utilized for the acceleration and speed the rider wants, rather than in over­coming the friction that is found in less carefully engineered motorcy­cles. That is a long story-and there is a great deal in it. More could be told about it if we had the space.

“The engine, of 13 cubic inches piston displacement, is of overhead valve design which gives extremely snappy performance. Clutch is cork faced, with eight friction surfaces; the transmission has four speeds, runs on ball and roller bearings; the wheels are on roller and ball bearings. As a result of this expensive con­struction, we are positive this motor­cycle will surpass in performance anything of its size, as well as many motorcycles having considerably more power.”

Q: “All the experienced riders who have ridden the Arrow tell me it holds the road exceptionally well feels very steady-has no bounce or weaving, on any road, at any speed. How did you accomplish this?”

ANS: “I will be frank-we started by designing into the motorcycle all the knowledge of road-holding we have gained in our many years of racing success. While this is no rac­ing motorcycle, it is a well known fact that the race course has been the proving ground for outstanding au­tomotive developments.”

WE TRY THE ARROW ON THE ROAD AFTER thanking Mr. Weaver for his courtesies and for a mighty interesting hour, we started out to ride this- wonderful new motorcycle -our head filled with a new concep­tion of the vast amount of engineer­ing and test work that made it pos­sible.

The road holding is exceptionally good, and we found it hard to believe we were on a lightweight: The en­gine is a sweet running mechanism that seems to be happy in any of the four gears, even on a wide open throt­tle in second or third. .

On the model we rode, vibration at any speed is positively not there she is smooth as glass from zero to 63 miles per hour, the top speed we hit. We like the gear ratios, which are 17 to one in low, 11.69 to one in second, 7.4 in third and 6.12 to one in fourth.

EXCELLENT PERFORMANCE AFTER checking the speedometer with one we knew to be right on the button, we made tests in all four speeds-found these results: In low gear, 30 miles per hour. In second gear 41 miles per hour. In third 55, and in fourth, 63 miles per hour, and if we had let ‘er roll a bit farther think she would have touched 65. The new. Indian Arrow is a thor­oughbred-worthy of its long line of illustrious ancestors, the product of an excellent modern engineering and test-program, covering four years. THE END

Cylinder Bore Refinishing

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Cross Hatch Angles

Cylinder bore refinishing is extremely important in the engine rebuild process. There are some basic rules and facts which will prevent common problems incurred when deglazing or refinishing cylinders.

CROSS HATCH ANGLES

The correct angle for cross hatch lines to intersect is approximately 45°. Too steep an angle promotes oil migration down the cylinder resulting in a thin oil film which can cause ring and cylinder scuffing.
Too flat a cross hatch angle can hold excess oil which conversely causes thicker oil films
which the piston rings will ride up on or hydroplane. Excessive oil consumption will result.
The diagrams will illustrate cross hatch angles.

HONING METHODS

Two basic systems are used to refinish cylinder wall either rigid stones or a flexible brush.
Correct cylinder finishes can be achieved with either system if used correctly. In all cases the manufacturers instructions must be followed with respect to :

  1. Stone grit
  2. Honing oil
  3. Stone pressure (Automatic equipment)
    The vertical speed of the brush or hone in the cylinder is what causes the cross hatch angle on the surface of the cylinder wall Too slow a vertical speed causes too flat an angle while too rapid up and down motion of the hone or brush causes too steep an intersecting angle. In the case of hand honing it will be necessary for the operator to experiment to learn the proper up and down movement in relation to the rotating speed of the one to produce proper cross hatch angle.

CYLINDER ROUGHNESS

Substantial controversy exists on the correct cylinder roughness for proper seating of piston rings whether chrome moly or plain cast iron It has been our experience that the use of 220/280 grit stones and achieving proper cross hatch angle produces a finish compatible to all three types of the above rings

CYLINDER CLEANING

The single most critical factor of any cylinder refinishing job is the cleaning of that cylinder after the honing operation
It can be stated pistons rings and cylinder bores will forgive slight variations in roughness cross hatch angle etc. No engine component will tolerate dirt!
Honing cylinders leaves two types of “dirt” on the cylinder wall, honing stone residue and cast iron dust If not removed before the engine is reassembled the worlds finest lapping compound is waiting to destroy all the hard work of assembly the instant the engine is started.
Proper cylinder cleaning consists of a thorough scrubbing of the block with hot soapy water taking care to clean the surface under the cylinder facing the crankcase Rinse with hot water dry and lightly oil to prevent rust
For detailed honing questions it is wise to contact the manufacturer of your specific equipment They are experts in metal finishing and of course completely understand their own equipment
In general if the foregoing practices are used excellent engine performance will result